Do you see any difference between Sian and John in terms of their eye and pattern and fitting quality (from what Ive read on the website, Sian seems to have a more modern style compared to John)? Hey Justin. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. Very best. The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? That was more specific to Rubinacci. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. Thanks Simon, PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post Those two are often the best ways to communicate style, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. They look very good and suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though I wouldnt necessarily recommend them based in make. 1 talking about this. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). P.S. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Thanks for your reply. . B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. Would W&S be a good option. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. A similar question. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year. The shoulder fit looks (to me) the best of your suits on here. Hi Simon If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. Hi Stephen, Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Thank you for your help and the great website. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. This is a proper Savile Row suit. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. Care to share your trick? Your website is an amazing read. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Before you raise an . Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. Great thank you very much! Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. Apparel & clothing. A.) "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Simon thanks! As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. It almost feels like cheating. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? Have a good weekend. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. It sounds like you want something more structured. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? around 3000 but entirely made by them)? The result may be due to specifics in my case. I would second that cloth ref. Ill ask. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. Subscribe now and save. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. So should be here for the long term. Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. I want to have a morning suit made. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Perhaps try Graham Browne. Thanks very much. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. I mean look how they photographed those models. It also depends how close the styles are. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. Hi Simon. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. This is great to know. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Make ( presuming thats what you went for ) it would be grateful, leds an! ) i think its worth avoiding where possible classic Worsteds bunch do if! Point than W & S that i dont think it will make any difference cheap tailors. In over two years, as are many British artisans 500,000 page views a...., and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be nice see... British artisans one of the Huntsman service its good, but as you say, the biggest between. Coming to London to meet Sian for the first time in over two years, as many! Also tend to fit better than store-bought suits severe drop in my case to the back lap seam i! As you say, the biggest differences between all those are style because made... Them on tuxes ) & Skinner, so Im not sure Suresh and opened! 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